Slow Travel Germany: George on how teaching in a little German village changed her life

January 27, 2012 Den Den 9 Comments

This is a guest post by Georgina over at George Going Down for the ‘How do you slow travel?’ series. If you would like more information about this series or want to submit your own guest post, click here.

My family didn’t have much money growing up and as such our summer holiday every year was to a Butlins holiday camp with the £9.50 coupons out of The Sun. Surprisingly enough, those annual trips to Minehead didn’t really make me hunger for travel like I do now. In fact, until I received my AS level results (and realised that they were rather good) the only university I was going to apply for was Cardiff. My genuine belief was that Cardiff was the best city in the world. I was going to be born there, live there and eventually die there. I look back at 17 year old George and laugh; oh how things have changed.

Following my A levels, a friend set me up with a German exchange partner who I spent a month with the summer before University; 2 weeks in Wales followed by 2 weeks in Germany. This initial meeting was crucial for me because our friendship would take me on my first trips without a strict school or auntie-led itinerary. Our next two meet-ups saw us backpack up Britain (2 days in each city) and do various tours of cities around the south of Germany, where she lives. These 2-3 days per city rule seemed the perfect amount of time to explore a place, but that was before I became a slow traveller.

Since I was studying German, I was inevitably going to live in Germany for my year abroad. Much to my crushing disappointment I was not placed in the bustling city of Frankfurt like I had always dreamt of, but the small village of Rodenbach,  population 9000, which lies 30 minutes away by train. I thought it was a disaster, but it’s funny how things end up being for the best.

Being in a village meant that I was the only English speaker, and I was forced to make friends with locals and to speak German constantly, which was wonderful for my language development. Apart from this, as the only non-native German speaker, everyone in the village knew who I was. I was warmly welcomed at the ice cream cafe, where I went almost every day after work, and I didn’t even have to bring my ID to the bank with me. I would enter and be greeted with  “Hallo Miss Young”. I quickly got into a very comfortable routine. On Mondays I would have to work in the afternoon, so I would wander into the village in my lunch break, go to “Goldener Hirsch”, sit down at my usual table where the waitress would bring me a (small) beer, nod and say “bitte schön“.  I was ready to give my order and all without a menu. I already knew all Pizzas were 3.50€ on Mondays and Tuesdays and which ones were my favourites. If I was feeling ill I would call the same restaurant and without giving my address (they knew my accent) they would drop round my favourite lentil curry (normally with a free bottle of coke.) The restaurant in fact knew me so well that when my mum came to visit (she was meeting me there after work) they ushered her inside to my table saying “mother mother”. Why else would there be an English speaking person in Rodey B (as I affectionately called it)?

The library on my first visit directed me to their English section where they had not one but 2 copies of Bill Bryson’s “Down Under”, which partly inspired my 3 months of travels around Australia the following summer. I had my own 1 bed flat (the first place I’ve rented all to myself) and I think about and miss Rodenbach almost every day.

But why was I offered a job in a tiny village in the middle of Europe? I was an Englischesprachassisstentin or English language assistant, and the choice to teach English was possibly one of the best decisions I have ever made.


If I had applied for an internship or university, I would inevitably have ended up in a huge city and my friends would have been other English native speakers. Teaching English not only gave me valuable work experience and life experience but it also made me realise that it was the perfect way to travel. English language teaching opportunities are available in almost every country in the world and although I used my position within Europe to take MANY weekends away in different cities and even countries (hello Ryanair), I was always comforted by the idea that I had a home to go back to. Every time the train arrived in Rodenbach station and I disembarked after a long journey I always had this sense of peace and happiness inside of me that almost moved me to tears (though I do cry about anything including the end of Hocus Pocus!). I felt I left Germany with a part of it inside of me even if that part is only the inability to make small talk or write short sentences (sorry).

Teaching is not only a stable job with plenty of breaks to go travelling in and a contract you can cancel at the end of every year (if wanderlust strikes again) but you also feel like you are making a real difference to the children (and I don’t just mean in their grades). I still keep in touch with some of the older girls and have the picture they gave me in my room. Teaching and travelling changed me and now I can’t see myself separating the two for very long. I even tutored German in Australia!

I have now applied to teach in Japan and let the slow travel continue. I wonder whether 26 year old George is looking back at me now and laughing at my crazy ideas or whether she still agrees that teaching and travelling is the best way of travelling.

George is a travel blogger and Gap Daemon travelling intern who not only lived in Germany for 9 months and travelled across Europe, but backpacked through Australia for 3 months which is where she started her blog georgegoingdown.blogspot.com. Her blog is a mix of her solo female travels throughout Australia as well as travel tips, flash backs from her year abroad, stories of her new adventures in Morocco and upcoming adventures in Ireland, Eastern Europe and Hitch-hiking to Croatia, as well as the move to Japan. Her aim is to encourage all girls to take the leap of faith and become solo female travellers too.

-Text by George, photos via Flickr creative commons, click on photos for attribution @ www.theartofslowtravel.com. All rights reserved.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...


, , , Slow Travel

9 Comments → “Slow Travel Germany: George on how teaching in a little German village changed her life”

  1. I lived in Germany for some time and loved learning the language. The best thing about living in Germany was the fact that you heard the language everyday so you could learn it a little faster. Great post

    • George 1 year ago   Reply

      Thanks! I love learning German too, a village was great for real language immersion though I felt I got lazy (speaking mostly in present tense was a bad habit I picked up because people put up with it). I think living in a country is definitely the way to pick up a language x

  2. George 1 year ago   Reply

    Thanks! I had a great time writing this article. So many ideas I’d never formulated into words :) Hope you guys like it too x

  3. Christie 1 year ago   Reply

    George,
    Your article was just what I was looking for! Thanks so much! I am a loan traveling English teacher currently in Thailand. I’m studying German and want to do similar to what you’ve done. I’ve heard so many negative things about teaching there though….do you have any advice for me?

  4. George 1 year ago   Reply

    I’m not going to lie and say that teaching was always easy because it wasn’t. I was based in a Hauptschule so some of the children had behavioral difficulties and some had no desire to learn. On the other hand I think it’s more rewarding when you help those who really want your help.

    What negative things have you heard? I was there with many other language assistants and the general feedback was that it was amazing especially those in Beruflicheschules where the kids were more their age and they could show them around, schools often also pay for trips like ones to Latvia, Majorca etc.

    I worked through the British Council (though you need at least an AS in German to apply) and they are always very helpful with training and problems though if you are not at uni you will only get the 800€ per month teaching wage which while livable can be quite tight at time.

    If you would like to know anything specific don’t hesitate in writing back. :)

    • Den Den 1 year ago   Reply

      Hello George and Christine,

      For some reason, Christine sent the following comment but it ended up in my inbox only rather than on here. I’m pasting it here:

      Hi George!
      Thanks for writing back so fast. :)

      The negative things I’ve been reading online are: 1. horrible pay 2. bad treatment 3. unfriendly people 4. crazy taxes.

      As I’m already a teacher I know exactly what you mean about the kids. It is a very rewarding experience though!! :)

      Thanks for the extra info! I’ll let you know if I have more questions. :)

      Take care,

      Christie

  5. George 1 year ago   Reply

    As far as pay goes I was working through a British Council Scheme which meant I earnt 800€ a month but on top of that I had student loan, grant and Erasmus. In all it came to about £15,000 but if I did it now I would only get the 800€ which while livable is not great admittedly.

    I’ll be honest I was treated fairly badly by some of the teachers making me work with kids with behavioural problems without a supervisor, not knowing I was teaching alone until I turned up and then spontaneously making up a lesson plan, not telling me when I had days off etc. A lot of people would have quit in a similar situation (some did), but this was my school most other schools were really warm welcoming and good to their staff.

    The people are friendly though I love Germany and the Germans, there are obviously good and bad but it’s the same with every country.

    As for taxes I had all my taxes taken out before I received any money so I didn’t pay anything more it was all taken care of, including health insurance, so really I don’t know what they are like.

    Hope this helps x

    • Den Den 1 year ago   Reply

      wow George that sounds horrible!

Trackbacks For This Post

  1. Travel Germany: Georgie On the Go - travelinksites.com | travelinksites.com - 11 months ago

    [...] why I just went on a rant about trains. One of my favourite posts though is one I wrote for The Art of Slow Travel. I think I enjoyed writing it so much because it was very personal to [...]

Leave a Reply

Notify me of followup comments via e-mail. You can also subscribe without commenting.